Quick answer: A baroque pearl is any pearl with an irregular, non-symmetrical shape. It forms when layers of nacre build up unevenly, and most baroque pearls sold today are cultured, many of them freshwater. Their quality depends mainly on luster and nacre, while the shape gives each pearl a character no other pearl shares.
For centuries, the round pearl was the ideal. Yet some of the most expressive pearls ever worn are the ones that refused to be round. A baroque pearl is any pearl with an irregular, non-symmetrical shape. No two are alike, and that is exactly their appeal.
How a pearl forms
A pearl grows inside a mollusk, such as an oyster or a freshwater mussel, when the animal coats an irritant in thin layers of nacre, the same lustrous material that lines its shell. Over months and years, thousands of microscopic layers build up. Light moving through and reflecting off those layers creates a pearl's glow, called luster.
Almost all pearls sold today are cultured: a person starts the process by placing a small bead or a piece of tissue inside the mollusk, and the animal does the rest. Natural pearls, formed with no human help, are now extremely rare.
Why some pearls become baroque
A pearl turns out round only if it grows evenly in every direction. Many things can change that: the shape of the starting nucleus, the pearl's position in the mollusk, movement as it grows, or simply time. Freshwater pearls, which are often grown from tissue alone with no round bead inside, are especially likely to take on baroque forms. Larger and older pearls also tend to become more irregular.
Common baroque shapes include drops, ovals, coins, "keshi" (small pearls made entirely of nacre) and freeform shapes with ridges, swirls and folds.
Where the word "baroque" comes from
The word is usually traced to the Portuguese barroco, a term for an irregularly shaped pearl. Later, "baroque" was borrowed to describe the dramatic, curving art and architecture of 17th-century Europe, at first as a criticism. In a sense, the pearl named the art movement, not the other way around.
Renaissance and Baroque-era jewelers loved these pearls. They often used a single large baroque pearl as the body of a mermaid, a swan or a dragon, building a gold and enamel figure around the pearl's natural shape. The style was so admired that 19th-century goldsmiths revived it, as in the pendant below.
What to look for
- Luster. The most important quality. A good pearl looks bright and glowing, with sharp reflections, not chalky or dull.
- Surface. Some texture is natural on a baroque pearl. Look for an even glow rather than deep pits or cracks.
- Nacre. Thick nacre means better luster and durability.
- Character. With baroque pearls, shape is not a flaw to grade down. It is the personality of the piece. Choose the one that speaks to you.
Caring for pearls
- Put pearls on last, after perfume, hairspray and lotion, and take them off first.
- Wipe them with a soft, slightly damp cloth after wearing.
- Keep them away from household chemicals, chlorine and ultrasonic cleaners.
- Store them separately in a soft pouch so harder jewelry cannot scratch them.
- Wear them often. Pearls are organic and benefit from a little natural moisture.
The Baroque Collection at Memori
We choose each pearl first, then design a one-of-one sterling silver setting around its natural form, so the metal follows the pearl rather than forcing it into a standard shape. Each piece is made once and never repeated, and new pieces are released monthly. Explore The Baroque Collection.
Frequently asked questions
Are baroque pearls real pearls?
Yes. Baroque pearls are made of the same nacre as round pearls. Only the shape is different.
Are baroque pearls less valuable than round pearls?
Perfectly round pearls usually cost more at the same size and quality. But large baroque pearls with strong luster are prized for their individuality, and many designers prefer them.
How do I care for a baroque pearl?
Put it on last and take it off first, wipe it with a soft damp cloth after wearing, keep it away from chemicals and ultrasonic cleaners, and store it separately from harder jewelry.
Where does the word "baroque" come from?
It is usually traced to the Portuguese barroco, a term for an irregular pearl, and was later used for the art and architecture of 17th-century Europe. Looking for a gift? See our meaningful jewelry gift guide.